Invisible Zipper Application

Well folks my hobby is sewing and over the years it has become my passion; it relieves my tension and it has become a lot of fun.  I make all kinds of things from baby clothing to my own outfits; even made my husband a few cleric robes and saved a lot of money.

Although, I’ve made many things, it’s surprising I haven’t made much money sewing! One reason being, if I did it for money all the time it would become a job and I cannot do that for something I love so much, to turn it into something I hate doing.

I’ve always wanted to get to a point where I can maybe teach; for each item I’ve sewn, I’ve enhanced my skills.

This blog will be dedicated to people who want to learn to sew; for beginners maybe I can spread the joy of sewing.

First lesson on this blog will be “Invisible Zipper Installation”

This technique is call “invisible” because the zipper is hidden in the seam, with no visible stitching lines appearing on the right side of the garment.  I love making garments using the technique, it adds to the richness of the garment.

The zipper is applied before the seam is stitched; a special zipper foot (invisible zipper foot) that fits your sewing machine brand.

You don’t particularly need an invisible zipper foot, but it will make the zipper application easier.

Step 1
Open zipper from the wrong side, press coil flat using a synthetic setting on the iron (not to hot, don’t want to melt the zipper teeth).

Step 2

Keep in mind, the seam is not stitched for this application, so you will be working with two pieces of the garment.  For illustration purposes, the two pieces will be back of the garment.  Pin open the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric.  (Remember to remove pins as you sew down the zipper).

Place coil on 5/8” inch seam line and top-stop ¾” inch from raw edge of garment. Note: as a helpful hint, when using this application, mark the seam allowance along the zipper opening with a basting stitch; mark both pieces of the garment.  The coil will be placed at the basted line.

Step 3
Attach invisible zipper foot to the sewing machine, adjusting the foot so that the machine needle is centered in the hole.  Position right grove of foot over coil; stitch from top of zipper until foot reaches the slider, removing the pins as you stitch, then back-tack.

Step 4
Now, pin other side of zipper, face down to righ side of other garment section.  Place coil on 5/8” inch seam line, check to be sure zipper is not twisted at bottom.

Step 5
Position left groove of foot over coil, and stitch zipper until the foot reaches slider.

Step 6

Close the zipper; pin garment sections right sides together along the seam line below zipper, pull end of zipper out of the way.  Adjust zipper foot to the left so that the needle is in line with the edge of the foot.  Insert needle slightly above and to the left of previous stitch seam.  Pull thread ends to open side and tie.  You may find it easier to stitch this seam from about 2 inches with the zipper foot, then change to the regular presser foot to complete the seam.  I actually switch to the regular zipper foot to attach the two garment pieces together.

Well folks, I hope this first lesson is beneficial for someone.  Until the next time, good sewing, good fun!